La Trafila's Ramps & Roasted Potato Girasoli are a limited spring pasta from the Brooklyn pasta makers in Gowanus. Girasoli — Italian for "sunflowers" — are pleated, flower-shaped parcels of fresh egg pasta, filled here with buttery Yukon Gold potatoes, parmesan, and ramps. Ramps are the wild spring allium foraged from eastern hardwood forests, with a flavor that splits the difference between garlic and sweet onion and a season that lasts only a few short weeks each year. Made in small batches while the harvest is in. Finish with butter, a little pasta water, and parmesan, and let the ramps do the talking.

